Something New at Pumpernickels

This day could not have been more beautiful. A lovely Saturday evening with a dinner planned can hardly ever go wrong. While I had to be patient with parking. The walk was a nice warm up for the meal I was about to have. The city of Saugatuck was buzzing with life as I was able to get settled into my outdoor seating. Molly, My server greeted me warmly and I was ready to begin my meal. She had asked what I would be having, but unlike most of my visits this one was planned. I told her to let Exec Chef Colin know I arrived and I would be having whatever they sent me. One appetizer, one Entree, and one dessert.
I had glanced over the new menu and was excited to see what would be coming my way. The server let me know that Chef Colin had reserved a specific appetizer for my arrival as it tends to sellout. That would be the Octopus and Watermelon. This dish offers compressed watermelon, candied jalapeno, and chargrilled octopus. Right away I was extremely excited as it follows my own rule of three. Savory, sweet, and spicy. A combination that I will never turn down. The watermelon was sweet, firm, and juicy. The octopus chargrilled just enough to have a nice crisp that gave away to a softer texture underneath. What really did it for me here is the candied jalapeno. The octopus and watermelon already on its own was phenomenal on its own. The candied jalapeno had a nice crunch to it. Sweet first, then the heat, but never too much. Meeting the watermelon halfway really gave the dish a finished feeling. If I could have a bottomless serving of this dish. There would be a much harder time finding octopus and watermelon.
The Delmonico. A hand cut 14oz ribeye, red wine demi-glace, Sarladaise potatoes, and roasted green beans. After being recommended many seafood entrees recently I was thrilled to receive a steak. Before my entree arrived my server asked me how I prefer my steak. This is not something I have much of an opinion on. I appreciate a chefs ability to get the proper cook on a steak each time, but I want to experience it in whichever way they think its the best. So I said. I want it as if they were making it for themselves. Not only does this cut the suspense of a "perfect" cook, but it makes things a bit more interesting. The knife went through the Delmonico easily, never fighting back. There was more char on the steak than I was used to, a delightful smokiness that stayed with each bite. As far as steaks go. It was their own thing, and I liked that about it. The Sarladaise potatoes were new to me. I had never had anything cooked in duck fat before this. Its richer than butter, and it clings to the potato in a way oil never does. I understood the decision of these potatoes with the Delmonico immediately. The green beans cut through the richness of everything else on the plate and it was clear that was their purpose.
You wont find house made desserts here. Chef Colin let me know that in the heart of Saugatuck there are many places to find sweet treats and often times people are lined up for them. Rather than competing with them. It makes sense to go and support their neighbors. It is nice to see that Chef Colin understands his market and decides to focus his teams efforts on what the mission is for Pumpernickels.
I had an amazing dinner here at Pumpernickels. The staff were kind and the environment was alive. This is definitely a restaurant you want to bring friends and family or anyone else you'd like to socialize with. It is nice seeing the nightlife of Saugatuck bloom as the sun heads to bed. The octopus and watermelon appetizer was worth the trip alone. This appetizer is now a finalist for Jandroz favorite appetizer of 2026, a new award I'll be handing out at the end of the year, for the dishes I couldn't stop thinking about. Thank you Pumpernickels for the hospitality.